How to Sew a Side Snap Pull-Up

If you’re looking for a flexible alternative to a standard pull-up, a side-snap pull-up is a great option for both toddlers and adults. This style works like a pull-up but includes stretchy side bands with snaps or Velcro, enabling the item to be removed without having to pull it off down the legs. This makes changes easier, whether you’re dealing with a squirmy toddler or just want some discretion when changing.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you step-by-step how to sew a side-snap pull-on, using the same basic construction as a pull-up with a few key modifications.

To purchase a pattern, check out my pattern shop, Little Onion Cloth.

What Is a Side-Snap Pull-Up?

A side-snap pull-up is basically a regular pull-up, but instead has snaps on the front where the side band meets the front waterproof panel.

The base pattern is the exactly the same for both a pull up and a side snap pull up, the changes are in the way the item gets sewn.

Step 1: Assemble the Pull-Up Body

Like the basic pull up, prepare the absorbent insert and stitch around however many layers of fabric are needed.

Next, sew the absorbency to the WRONG side of the lining. 

Finally, pin the lining to the PUL (or outer panel) RIGHT sides together. At this point, instead of just sewing the leg openings, continue sewing up along the front side ONLY up to the waist band. The side bands will still get attached to the back like in a regular pull up.

Sewing Tip: Stretch vs. Non-Stretch Fabrics

When sewing stretchy fabric to a woven or non-stretch fabric, always sew with the non-stretch fabric on top. This prevents the presser foot from stretching the fabric and distorting the seams.

If you’re sewing with PUL or another sticky fabric, a Teflon or plastic presser foot will prevent dragging and skipped stitches. These are inexpensive and highly recommended for cloth diaper sewing.

If you don’t have a plastic foot, putting felt or scotch tape on the bottom of your presser foot works well in a pinch.

Step 2: Preparing the Side Bands

With side band pieces right sides together, sew along the short edge.

Next, turn the side band right side out and topstitch along the short edge you just stitched. Baste along the top edge.

To sew FOE to side band:

First, hem one side of the FOE by turning the short edge under and topstitching. This edge will match up with the front edge of the side band that you just turned and topstitched.

Second, pin the FOE to the side band, lining up the hemmed edge of the FOE with the finished edge of the side band. Stitch using a 3 step zigzag.

pin the short edge of the stretchy side band to the pull-on body. Stitch in place.

Step 3: Sew Sidebands to Body

At this point, sandwich the unfinished side of the sidebands between the PUL and lining layer of the back body of the pull up and pin in place. 

Stitch, using either a standard stitch or a stretch stitch. Since stretch stitches work by essentially double stitching as it goes, it can offer a more secure stitch for areas that are under tension. 

Again, sew with the PUL layer facing up on your sewing machine.  

Step 3: Add Elastic to Legs

Stitch elastic to leg openings by using a standard zigzag stitch.

Once finished, trim and clip the corners where the back side bands meet the leg elastic. This helps to reduce bulk.

Step 4: Turn, Topstitch, and Baste

Turn the pull-up so it is right side out  topstitch along the leg opening and up the front panel. 

Next, baste the PUL layer and the lining together at the front and back waist. Basting helps ensure both layers are caught when applying fold-over elastic. The last thing you want is to get your FOE sewn down and realize that the lining didn’t catch. Removing a 3-step zigzag stitch is NOT fun!

Step 5: Prepare and Sew Fold-Over Elastic (FOE)

Before attaching the fold-over elastic to the waist, you’ll need to hem both ends of the front and back waist pieces. Simply fold the end over and stitch across the top so you have nice finished ends on your elastic pieces.

Pin the short piece of FOE to the front of the pull-on and sew using a three-step zigzag stitch.

Repeat for the back waist. Since the back is a lot longer than the front, it helps to pin the edges and then find the middle of your FOE and back panel and add an extra pin there. This keeps the elastic even and easier to sew.

Tip for sewing FOE on the waistband:

The hardest part of sewing a side snap pull up is stitching the hemmed edges of the FOE to the hemmed edges of the pull up. This makes for super bulky seams and can cause your sewing machine to revolt.

To make this easier:

• Place your pull up under the foot, a half inch in from the edge of the FOE.
• Start with a backstitch. It’s much easier to pull the fabric TOWARDS you than it is to try to push the bulky layers back under the presser foot. 
• Once you’ve backstitched to the end of the FOE, slowly push the fabric away from you and stitch over your backstitches.
• If your needle gets stuck, lift the needle and presser foot up and push the fabric back a smidge before setting it down again. You may need to hand crank out a few stitches, but since you already backstitched, you know that the FOE is sewn down. Don’t worry if your stitches get a little messy at this point.

Step 7: Add Snaps or Velcro

The final step is to apply snaps or hook and loop tape.

Once fasteners are added, your side-snap pull-on is complete.

Final Thoughts on Sewing a Side-Snap Pull-Up

Side-snap pull-ups offer flexibility and adjustability, but they do take more time and are a little more challenging to sew than a standard pull-up. If you want a side snap item without the extra hassle of the side bands on a pull up, you can also sew a training pant with side snaps. 

For additional tutorials, check out my pull-up sewing videos for leg topstitching and basic construction.